673 Cooley Drive, Colton, California 92324, United States
Types of Water Heaters
Conventional Tank Water Heater
Tankless (On-Demand) Water Heater
Tankless (On-Demand) Water Heater
- How It Works: These units heat and store a large volume of water (typically 40–80 gallons) in an insulated tank.
- Pros: They generally have a lower upfront cost and utilize relatively simple technology, making them straightforward to install and maintain.
- Cons: A significant drawback is standby heat loss, where heat escapes from the stored w
- How It Works: These units heat and store a large volume of water (typically 40–80 gallons) in an insulated tank.
- Pros: They generally have a lower upfront cost and utilize relatively simple technology, making them straightforward to install and maintain.
- Cons: A significant drawback is standby heat loss, where heat escapes from the stored water even when not in use. They also require a considerable amount of space due to their large footprint.
Tankless (On-Demand) Water Heater
Tankless (On-Demand) Water Heater
Tankless (On-Demand) Water Heater
- How It Works: Unlike conventional tanks, tankless heaters only heat water as it's needed. When a hot water tap is opened, water flows through a heat exchanger, which rapidly heats it.
- Pros: The primary advantage is an endless supply of hot water. They are also more energy-efficient as they avoid standby heat loss.
- Cons: The initial purchase
- How It Works: Unlike conventional tanks, tankless heaters only heat water as it's needed. When a hot water tap is opened, water flows through a heat exchanger, which rapidly heats it.
- Pros: The primary advantage is an endless supply of hot water. They are also more energy-efficient as they avoid standby heat loss.
- Cons: The initial purchase and installation cost is typically higher than conventional units. They may also necessitate electrical or gas system upgrades to accommodate their power requirements.
Heat Pump Water Heater
Tankless (On-Demand) Water Heater
Heat Pump Water Heater
- How It Works: These water heaters use electricity to transfer heat from the surrounding air into the water, rather than generating heat directly. This process is similar to how a refrigerator works, but in reverse.
- How It Works: These water heaters use electricity to transfer heat from the surrounding air into the water, rather than generating heat directly. This process is similar to how a refrigerator works, but in reverse.
- Pros: They are exceptionally energy-efficient, often consuming up to 60% less energy than conventional electric water heaters.
- Cons: Heat pump water heaters require a certain amount of space for installation and perform best in locations with warm ambient air, as they draw heat from the environment.
Sizing & Fuel Source
- Capacity (tank model):
- Single households: 30–40 gal
- Families of 3–4: 50–60 gal
- Larger homes or simultaneous use: 75–80 gal
- Single households: 30–40 gal
- Flow rate (tankless model):
- Measured in gallons per minute (GPM).
- Typical needs: shower ~2–3 GPM; dishwasher ~1.5 GPM.
- Measured in gallons per minute (GPM).
- Fuel choices:
- Gas (natural or propane): faster recovery; works during power outages.
- Electric: simpler installation; lower installation cost.
- Hybrid/Electric heat-pump: best efficiency in mild climates.
- Gas (natural or propane): faster recovery; works during power outages.
Tip: Always oversize slightly to avoid “cold-water sandwich” effects on tankless units.
Installation Overview
- Site preparation
- Remove old unit; cap old lines safely.
- Check venting and clearances per code.
- Remove old unit; cap old lines safely.
- Position new heater
- Level placement on drain pan; ensure proper drainage.
- Level placement on drain pan; ensure proper drainage.
- Plumbing connections
- Use appropriately sized copper or PEX fittings.
- Install isolation valves on inlet/outlet.
- Use appropriately sized copper or PEX fittings.
- Fuel/Power hookup
- For gas: connect to existing gas line; pressure-test for leaks.
- For electric: run dedicated circuit with correct breaker.
- For gas: connect to existing gas line; pressure-test for leaks.
- Venting (gas models)
- Install PVC or metal vent per manufacturer specs.
- Install PVC or metal vent per manufacturer specs.
- Pressure-relief valve & expansion tank
- Mandatory for safety and code compliance.
- Mandatory for safety and code compliance.
- Startup & testing
- Fill tank slowly, checking for leaks.
- Fire burners or energize element; verify thermostat operation.
- Fill tank slowly, checking for leaks.
Safety note: Improper installation risks carbon monoxide leaks, scalding, or burst tanks. Always use a licensed plumber.
Permits & Inspections
- Permit requirements vary by city/county—most require plumbing and sometimes electrical permits.
- Inspections ensure correct venting, gas connections, and seismic strapping (in earthquake zones).
- 5 Star Plumbing handles permit pulls and coordinates inspections—saving you time and ensuring compliance.
Maintenance & Longevity
- Annual flush to remove sediment (especially in hard-water areas).
- Inspect anode rod every 2–3 years; replace if heavily corroded.
- Check pressure-relief valve annually for proper operation.
- Insulate tank and pipes to reduce heat loss.
- Monitor for rust, leaks, or unusual noises.
Expected lifespan:
Tank models: 8–12 years
Tankless: 15–20 years
FAQs
Q: How much does installation cost?
A: Varies by type ($800–$1,200 for basic electric tank; $1,500–$3,000+ for gas tankless). Get a free on-site estimate to know exactly.
Q: Can I install myself?
A: DIY is possible only if you’re licensed and familiar with local codes. Otherwise, professional installation is strongly recommended.
Q: How do I choose between tank and tankless?
A: Consider your household’s simultaneous hot-water demand, budget, and energy-efficiency goals.